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Traditional Austrian ski villages are charming by day and lively by night, but have a reputation for small ski areas, long walks or bus-rides to lifts (followed by queues), too many of the dreaded T-bars, and poor snow-cover, thanks to their low altitude. Saalbach-Hinterglemm answers all such criticisms. Its ski circus is large by all but the highest French standards, much of the accommodation has something approaching ski-to-the-door convenience, the lifts are modern and, although it is quite busy, the ski area is free of any serious bottlenecks. There are snow-cover problems, particularly on the sunny side of the valley late in the season, but Saalbach's impressive snowmaking operation and its snow-pocket location provide conditions that are much better than the Tyrolean norm. It has some very lively nightlife.

• Large, well-linked, intermediate ski circuit with a good mix of open and tree-lined runs
• Little walking to the lifts from central town
• 'Saalbach is a big but pleasant, affluent and lively village
• Both villages are now traffic-free in the centre Atmospheric mountain restaurants throughout the ski area
• Sunny skiing
• Large snowmaking installation and excellent piste maintenance
• Lively nightlife, especially in Saalbach

Saalbach is one of the most attractive ski villages in Austria. Wedged into a narrow valley, with ski-able slopes coming right down to the village centre, its traditional-style buildings are huddled together around a classic onion-domed church. Purists will point out that the old look is false, with practically all the buildings being modern reproductions - the main exceptions are the Post inn and the church. But the result is a close approximation to Austrian charm with French ski convenience. The attractive main street is lined with hotels, restaurants and ski shops, is festooned with fairy lights the village centre is now traffic-free; there is a completely pedestrians zone and another area with car access only allowed for reaching hotels. A tunnel and underground car park hide the four-wheeled beasts. The valley road bypasses the village. Hinterglemm is a more scattered and less appealing collection of hotels and holiday homes. It has a small, pleasantly traffic-free, zone in the centre. It offers a cheaper, though by no means inexpensive, alternative to Saalbach, and has far better access to the north-facing slopes.

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