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Lenzerheide and Valbella are separate villages that share a big intermediate ski area in a pretty wooded setting.  Lenzerheide and Valbella are set on a wide, sunny, wooded pass with ski-able mountains on either side. The two villages are separated by a lake, which contributes to the classic Alpine scene. But the villages are an undisciplined sprawl of traditional and modern buildings, lacking character, with a busy road slicing through the middle of Lenzerheide and part of Valbella. The area is now patronised mainly by Swiss and German families155km of piste are spread evenly over two facing mountains, with a circuit possible (with a little walking). The east-facing Danis ski area has the greater number of runs, and reaches 2430m. Reporters complain of too many long T-bars - so it's good news that two drags at Alp Sta'tz are being replaced by a quad chair this season. Ten minutes out of town, towards Valbella, a cable-car and gondola access the west-facing Rothorn area -more varied, taller (1400m vertical) but less extensive. Sunny slopes and limited snow-cannons make the area less snow-sure than the altitude would suggest, especially in the trees lower down. However, skiing is usually assured above the mid-stations at about 1900m, and plenty of two-stage lifts means lack of resort-level snow is not a disaster.

The slopes get steeper with altitude, so the few advanced skiers' runs have the best snow. The long, beautiful off-piste trail from Rothorn's summit to town is a must. Off-piste excursions to nearby resorts, including Arosa, are possible with a guide.

The area suits intermediates well, except that it lacks variety. The top-to-bottom run of over 1000m vertical, from the shoulder of the Weisshorn (on the Rothorn side) to Parpan, is a highlight for confident skiers. There are long cruises on Danis, and even early intermediates will enjoy the pretty run home from the middle of the Rothorn cable-car.

In general the runs in the trees are very easy. There are adequate beginner areas close to the villages, and easy runs to progress to. If snow is in short supply, you go up to one of the mid-stations. With 50km of attractive trails, some on the lake, good tuition and night skiing, Lenzerheide is a leading cross­country resort. There are few queues except at weekends, when the cable-car and Parpan lift are jammed. Delays also occur if the lower runs are snow-less. The ski school has a reputation for small classes, but a lack of English-speaking instructors is

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