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Flims remains a Swiss gem undiscovered by the masses. With a large, sunny ski area set above a wooded shelf, it's reminiscent of Crans-Montana - but is superior in some ways, notably in the amount of high skiing available. It also has important advantages, in skiing terms, over other Swiss resorts more widely marketed. While the likes of Kitzbiihel and Wengen remain popular despite their poor snow records, Flims stays well outside the list of top resorts. The village was for many years a summer beauty spot that had only a moderate amount of skiing available in the winter. After winning a war with local conservationists in the 1970s, Flims and nearby Laax opened up a vast new network of lifts serving an impressive 220km of pistes. Yet it remains essentially a quiet place in winter, given the spark of life only by Zurich and Chur weekenders.
Extensive, varied, beautiful ski area suitable for all but experts
Fair amount of skiing above2000m offsets effects of sunny south-east-facing slopes
Large amount of wooded skiing for bad-weather days
Virtually queue-free on weekdays
Plenty to do off the slopes
Flims has some excellent, very beautiful, high skiing ideally suited to intermediates. Flims is made up of two villages, over a kilometre apart. Dorf is by far the larger and more animated, sprawling along a busy main road which houses most of the shops, hotels, restaurants and bars. Waldhaus is a sedate, sophisticated huddle of hotels - some of them quite grand - attractively set among trees.
Both resorts have stuck to the traditional look, with almost all hotels of the wooden chalet variety. Dorf is better placed than Waldhaus for skiers, having the village lifts on its western outskirts. Given the spread-out nature of the resort, it's surprising there is no ski-bus. However a combination of hotel courtesy buses, post buses and regional buses serve guests well. There are hotels in Dorf close to the lifts, but the majority are a long walk away. Although it's quiet, Flims has a pleasant cosmopolitan atmosphere -Germans, Dutch, Swedes, Belgians and Americans come here. Dorf is popular with fashionable families, while Waldhaus has an older, even more affluent clientele. Flims has a big, underrated ski area, with varied skiing: some long runs and some high skiing, including a small glacier area. Because of its sunny aspect, the lower runs deteriorate quickly and it's not uncommon to be unable to ski back to the villages. And in poor visibility there is little in the way of wooded skiing. The beautiful ski area has essentially four sections, each suitable for all grades but expert. The skiing has been well planned.