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Engelberg makes a great retreat with its impressive mountains offering one of the biggest verticals in the Alps. The ski area is rather unusual, with its main mountain slopes broken up by balconies.

Engelberg is one of Switzerland's longest-established year-round resorts - a bustling, rather town like village, home to an impressive 12th-century monastery, surrounded by spectacular mountains. Much of the old-world charm of the original village has been diluted by modern development. But it remains a pleasant enough place, and away from the town the valley is very scenic. Engelberg is rather isolated from other resorts, but it is possible to get to Andermatt and to the Jungfrau region. There are two contrasting ski areas either side of the village, their widely separated lift stations served by a regular ski-bus. Very much the main area is Titlis, which rises an impressive 2000m from the valley floor. A two-stage gondola goes up to the shelf of Triibsee (1800m). Above this a two-stage cable-car rises to over 3000m, the second stage having the novelty of the world's first revolving cabin, allowing superb views of glacial scenery. Below the summit are some short drags; descent to Trubsee is via a single steep piste, with easier slopes lower down. Across the frozen Triibsee, a separate set of lifts serve good red runs below Jochstock (2565m). There is a roundabout run back to the valley. The Brunni area, accessed by a gondola from the edge of town, has a small network of sunny pistes between Schonegg (2040m) and Ristis (1600m), and occasionally a run back to town.

The high, north-facing Titlis has good snow reliability high drags stay open into June); but the resort as a whole is not particularly reliable. However, piste grooming is excellent. For advanced skiers, the big attraction is off-piste - the famous Laub. This is a steep wall dropping 1000m from the shoulder of Titlis, which is superb when conditions are right, dangerous when they are not. There is quite a lot of skiing for confident intermediates, in particular some great barrelling runs off Jochstock. But there is not much very easy skiing.

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